Around the Mysterious Horsey Mere

About trip

In 1938 a devastating combination of high tides and storms occurred around Horsey. The sea surged inland, flooding buildings and fields, and forcing people to evacuate their homes. It was four months before the water subsided and the villagers were able to resume normal life, although it took another five years before the damaging effects of salt water on the fields was finally overcome and crops could be grown again. Horsey is barely 3ft (1m) above sea level and, as you walk around the reed-fringed mere and stroll along its many drainage channels, you will appreciate the unchanging wildness of this part of Norfolk and its vulnerability at the hands of the sea. Not for nothing was this area known as ‘Devil’s Country’ in local legends. Listing Brograve Mill. You will see part of the devil’s handiwork when you pass Brograve Mill, between Horsey and Waxam. The story goes that one Thomas Brograve was determined to reclaim part of this wilderness for farming, and built a mill. The devil was furious and tried to blow it down. He did not succeed, but you will see a distinct list to the mill today, indicating that the battle was a close-run thing! Horsey has its own legend: it is said that on 13 June each year, the wailing voices of drowned children can be heard from the mere. The village and surrounding area is now in the care of the National Trust, so its picturesque tranquillity is unlikely to be spoiled. All Saints’ Church dates from the 13th century, and has an attractive thatched nave. Go inside and look for the stained-glass window in the south chancel commemorating Catherine Ursula Rising, who died in 1890. She is shown painting in her drawing room at Horsey Hall. The hall is to the south, built in 1845 for the Risings, who bought the manor from the Brograves. Horsey Drainage Mill. The village’s most famous feature is the Horsey Drainage Mill, built to pump water from the surrounding farmland. It dates from the middle of the 19th century, but was rebuilt in 1897 and again in 1912. It has four storeys of brick and a handsome weather-boarded cap in the shape of a boat. It was working in 1940 when it was struck by lightning, and was restored in 1961. Today it is owned by the National Trust and is open to visitors. Away to the south-west is Horsey Mere, a part of the Broads and a beautiful stretch of the walk. The mere is surrounded by reed beds, which are used for thatching many of Horsey’s pretty houses. This peaceful stretch of water offers a haven for countless birds, particularly in winter, when it is filled by thousands of waterfowl. While you're there: Nearby Hickling Broad is an unspoiled bird reserve in the care of Norfolk Wildlife Trust. It is home to Britain’s largest butterfly - the swallowtail. To the south, Rollesby Broad is linked to the Ormesby and Filby broads. To the south of Horsey is the Winterton Dunes National Nature Reserve, some 260 acres (105ha) of sand and marsh that is a fine place to watch migrant birds of prey and other species. What to look out for: Horsey Mere attracts hundreds of wigeon in winter, along with teal, shoveller, pochard, gadwall, goldeneye and tufted duck. Bitterns may be seen at any time of year. Look for stonechats, yellow wagtails and grasshopper warblers if you head towards the dunes. You might also spot two rare warblers - Cetti’s and Savi’s - the former is a newcomer, and the latter is returning to areas where it was once common. Where to eat and drink: The Nelson Head, owned by the National Trust, serves food and fine ales (opening times vary throughout the year). You can also try the Poppylands Café at Delph Farm along the way, which offers snacks and breakfasts. Staithe Stores at the car park sells snacks that can be eaten on the grass around the pleasant car park and wharfs. Directions: From the National Trust car park walk towards the toilets and take the footpath to the right of them. This leads to a footbridge. After crossing the bridge turn immediately right and follow the path along the side of Horsey Mere through reeds and alder copses. Cross a wooden bridge across a dyke and through a gate to enter a grassy water-meadow. Look for the white disc across the field. Go through a second gate and over a bridge. Turn right when the path meets a brown-watered dyke (Waxham New Cut). Eventually, you will see derelict Brograve Drainage Mill ahead. Herons and other birds often perch on its battered sails, so it’s worth stopping to look. Turn right immediately adjacent to the mill and walk along the edge of a field. Reed beds give way to water-meadow. Cross another plank bridge and continue straight ahead. The path bends left, then right, then crosses a small lane and continues through the field opposite. At the end of the field, make a sharp left, eventually coming to another lane. Go right at the lane, bearing right where it meets a track, and walk past Poppylands Café. When you reach a junction turn left, following the sign for the Nelson Head. Pass the pub on your lefthand side, then look for a well- defined footpath going off to your right. Walk past the gate and continue along the wide sward ahead, with a narrow dyke on either side. When the sward divides, bear left and head for a stile at the end of the footpath. Climb this and immediately turn right to walk along a spacious field. This area is used for grazing breeding stock and you should look for signs warning about the presence of bulls. Since this part of the walk is permissive, and not a public footpath, the National Trust is within its rights to put bulls here, so it is important to check for warning signs before you venture forth. These are always prominently displayed. If this is the case, you will have to walk back to the lane and turn left. This will take you back to the car park at the start of the walk. Assuming there are no bulls to hinder your progress, climb the stile, between the field and the road, and then cross the road. The car park where the walk began is ahead of you and slightly to your right. This is a good time to explore the delights of restored Horsey Drainage Mill, which you will find just to your left.