In the Lair of the White worm

About trip

Peak District - AA Walks Distance: 8km Minimum Time: 3hrs 30mins Ascent: 423ft Difficulty Level: 1 - Easy Paths: Forest tracks, grass and mud, hard footpath Landscape: Hillside, valley, meadows and woodland Dog Friendliness: Keep on lead near livestock Parking: At Grindon church Public Toilets: None on route Description: Anyone who has seen Ken Russell’s film, The Lair of the White Worm (1988), will recognise at once the entrance to Thor’s Cave and may, as a result, feel slightly apprehensive when climbing the path up the hillside. The opening shot in the film features the famous landmark and, as the blood red titles roll, the camera slowly zooms in towards the mouth of the cave. Scene of a Horror Film: Based loosely on Bram Stoker’s last novel, The Lair of the White Worm stars Amanda Donahoe, Hugh Grant, Catherine Oxenburg, Peter Capaldi and Sammi Davis. Stoker’s original story was based in the Peak District in the 19th century and tells of odd disappearances, legends of a fearsome giant serpent and of the strange and sinister Lady Arabella. Film maker Russell has moved the whole story in time to the 20th century and altered the plot considerably. A young Scottish archaeology student, Angus Flint (played by Peter Capaldi) finds a mysterious, reptilian skull at an excavation he’s working on near his lodgings. Later he takes the two sisters who run the guest house to the home of Lord James D’Ampton (Hugh Grant) for the annual celebrations to commemorate the slaying of the D’Ampton Worm by his ancestor. Angus leaves early to escort one of the sisters (Mary played by Sammi Davis) home. Passing through woods near where her parents mysteriously disappeared they encounter the sensuous and snakelike Lady Sylvia (irresistibly portrayed by Amanda Donahoe). In the dark cellars of her Gothic mansion, Temple Hall, she has been worshipping an evil and ancient snake god. It has an insatiable appetite for virgin flesh and Mary’s sister Eve (Catherine Oxenburg) is on the menu. D’Ampton connects the disappearance of Eve with Lady Sylvia and, taking on his ancestor’s role, heads for Thor’s Cave to search for a tunnel connecting to Temple Hall. The nonsense ends in predictable fashion, with Angus emerging as the reluctant hero (wearing a kilt and playing the bagpipes), snatching Eve from the monster’s jaws and slaying it with a hand grenade. Thor’s Cave may be the most famous cave in the Peak District but there are several others, including Ossom’s Cave and Elderbush. Both have been explored and produced bones and flints from the Stone and Bronze Ages. So, Thor’s Cave may have been home to one or two prehistoric beasties but in reality none of them were big white snakes. Formed over thousands of years from the combined effects of wind and rain on the soft limestone, it probably sheltered animals like giant red deer, bears or even early humans. Excavations have revealed it to be the site of a Bronze Age burial, although much of the evidence was lost by over-zealous 19th-century excavators. While you're there: Well worth a visit is All Saints Church near the car park at Grindon. Known as ‘the Cathedral of the Moorlands’ it contains the remains of an earlier Saxon church, an ancient font and stone coffins. There’s also a memorial to the airmen and journalists who died in a plane crash on Grindon Moor during the terrible winter of 1947 when attempting to bring relief supplies to the village. Where to eat and drink: From the summit slope of Thor’s Cave, a footpath runs eastwards across the fields for just under a mile (1.6km) to Wetton. Ye Olde Royal Oak is located in the centre of the village and has long been a popular destination for walkers. The 400-year-old pub offers a choice of decent real ales, as well as hot and cold food served daily. If the weather is fine, you can sit outside in the beer garden and relax. What to look out for: Near the church gates is an old stone known as the Rindle Stone. It contains the inscription ‘The lord of the manor of Grindon established his right to this Rindle at Staffordshire Assizes on March 17th 1862’. A Rindle is a brook that only flows in wet weather. Why anyone would want to establish legal right to such a thing is not explained on the stone Directions: From the car park turn left, then right at the Old Rectory and head downhill. After 100 yds (91m) go left on to a public footpath, go through a gap stile, cross a field and head downhill on the right of two diverging paths. Cross a bridge, go through a gate then a gap stile and go downhill, keeping the stream and the wood on your right. 2 When the wall heads left go through a gap stile on your right continuing downhill into National Trust land at Ladyside. Cross over a stile, go through a wood and then leave it via another stile. Turn right, still continuing downhill to reach a stile leading on to the Manifold Way. 3 Cross the Manifold Way, then a bridge and take the path uphill following the signs for Thor’s Cave. At the mouth of the cave turn left, continue on a track uphill, curve right before a stile and follow the path to the summit for superb views along the Manifold Valley. 4 Retrace your steps to the Manifold Way and turn left. Continue past a car park at the caravan park and bear right on the Manifold Way and then cross two bridges. At the beginning of the third bridge cross a stile on the right and follow the path back, parallel to the road and then curving left and uphill. 5 Go through a gate by a driedup pond and follow the path uphill with the wall on your right. Keep straight on, through successive fields, with the church spire at Grindon ahea 6 Maintain your direction across fields, keeping to the left of the farm. Finally join a farm road, continue along a walled path, then turn right on to the road opposite Chestnut Cottage. Take the first left and follow this road back to the car park.