Mackworth and Markeaton: a Rural Idyll

About trip

Markeaton Park’s a bustling place in summer, but as soon as you cross the road and take the lane up to Markeaton Stones Farm you leave that all behind to enter a new rural world. The farmhouse is pristine, made from that warm-red local brick. The lawns, cottage gardens and stables show further that this place has been cared for. It was summer when I walked this route, and the track wended its way through fields of wheat that was swaying with the wind and crackling in the heat of the sun. The aura of the place brought Gray’s Elegy to mind, though the ploughman didn’t plod his weary way home, he chugged down the path in his shiny green tractor, just shipped in from Japan. As you climb the hill towards a stand of trees, look back and see Derby spread before you. Prominent in the view are the university, with its rooftop masts, and the cathedral, which dwarfs everything around it. The beeches of Vicar Wood guide you past the farm of the same name to the other side of the hill, where you can see mile upon mile of rolling farmland. Just beyond some trees lies the landscaped parklands of the estate, down to the hall and All Saints Church. Famous Scottish architect, Robert Adam, built the present hall for Nathanial Curzon in 1759. A World Apart: A short stretch of road leads to the next cross-field section. Though the walking is a little rougher, it’s still pleasantly pastoral. There’s a lake in a shady hollow to the right and Bowbridge Fields Farm is a fine 19th-century, three-storey, red-brick building. As you reach the busy A52 there’s a brief return to the present day, but Mackworth village is a surprise. It’s only yards from the A52, but again, it’s a world apart. A tidy row of 17th- and 18th-century cottages lines an undulating, slightly twisted lane. In the middle is a Gothic stone-built gatehouse, the remains of Mackworth Castle, which was built around 1495 for the de Mackworth family, and destroyed in the Civil War. At the end of the lane is the church of All Saints, a rather austere 14th-century building with a Perpendicular tower. The last mile of the route follows the Bonnie Prince Charlie Walk across fields and back to the civilisation of Markeaton Park. While you're there: You’ve seen Kedleston Hall through the trees, but it’s worth seeing it properly, once you’ve taken off your boots. Designed by Robert Adam, it’s set in parklands with lakes, cascades and woodland. There’s a marble hall; an Indian Museum with objects collected by Lord Curzon while he was Viceroy of India; and an exhibition of original Robert Adam drawings. The hall is open afternoons between March and October. Where to eat and drink: For well-earned refreshment at the end of the walk visit the Markeaton Village Tea Rooms at Home Farm, near the gateway entrance to Markeaton Park. This new educational farm and visitor centre offers a range of light refreshments and is open Thursday to Sunday throughout the year and daily in summer. For bar and restaurant meals try the Mackworth Hotel. What to look out for: Have a look around Mackworth church. The exterior is quite plain and there have been tales that it had a defensive purpose. In contrast is the rather elaborate Victorian modification to the interior, including an elaborate, carved alabaster lectern and an alabaster slab commemorating Thomas Touchet Directions: Leave the car park at Markeaton Park and cross the road to follow a surfaced lane to Markeaton Stones Farm. When you’re past the farm the track becomes a stony one, climbing gently around crop growing fields until you reach a T-junction. 2 Here turn left and then follow a crumbling tarmac lane up past a stand of trees until you reach the buildings of Upper Vicarwood Farm. 3 At the farm buildings continue through a gate on the left-hand side of the stable block and follow a grassy hilltop track. 4 Through a gate the track reaches Lodge Lane. Turn left along the lane to the gardens of Meynell Langley, then left again into a field next to the entrance to the drive. The path follows a hedge on the right. Through a small, wooded enclosure a lake appears in a hollow to the right. Beyond the next stile the route enters a large field and the hedge wanders off to the right. 5 Aim for a large lime tree at the far side of the field to locate the next stile. Cross the footbridge spanning Mackworth Brook. The path now goes parallel to a hedge on the right, aiming for a large barn on the hillside ahead. 6 On reaching a gateway the path divides. Take the one to the left, whose direction is highlighted by a waymarking arrow. Go through the next gate and follow the right field edge, passing to the left of the fine red-bricked Bowbridge Fields Farm. Now head south across fields following a hedge on the left. 7 After going over a stile in a tall hedge, turn left along the pavement of the busy A52 (take care), passing a garage. After 600yds (549m) go left along Jarveys Lane passing through Mackworth village. 8 Where the lane turns sharp right, leave it for a path passing in front of the church. Bonnie Prince Charlie waymarks show the welldefined route eastwards across fields to Markeaton. 9 On reaching the road you can either turn left back to the car park or go straight ahead through Markeaton Park. For the latter go through the gateway, turn left over the twin-arched bridge spanning the lake, left by the children’s playground, and left again past the boating lake.