Scaling the Heights of Abraham

About trip

Between Matlock and Cromford the River Derwent forges its way through a spectacular, thickly wooded limestone gorge. At Matlock Bath it jostles for space with the bustling A6 highway, the railway to Derby and a string of three-storey houses, shops and amusement parlours, built by the Victorians, who flocked here to take in the healing spa waters. On the hillside to the east lies the gaunt castle of Riber, while Alpine-type cable cars glide up the Heights of Abraham, above cliff tops to the west. The Heights in Quebec. The original Heights of Abraham, which the hillside must have resembled, rise above Quebec and the St Lawrence River in Canada. There, in 1759, British troops under General Wolfe fought a victorious battle with the French under General Montcalm. Both generals were killed and the encounter earned Wolfe, and Quebec, an unenviable place in English placename folklore, to be joined later by Waterloo and later still, Spion Kop Matlock Bath: Matlock Bath doesn’t have time to catch its breath: it’s Derbyshire’s mini-Blackpool. Yet there are peaceful corners, and this fine walk seeks them out. It offers fine views across the Matlock Gorge. Spurning the cable car, it climbs through the woods and out on to the hillside above the town. The Victoria Prospect Tower peeps over the trees. Built by unemployed miners a century ago it’s now part of the Heights of Abraham complex. Above the complex, a little path leads you through delectable woodland. In spring it’s heavy with the scent of wild garlic and coloured by a carpet of bluebells. Out of the woods, an attractive hedge-lined unsurfaced lane weaves its way through high pastures, giving distant views of the White Peak plateau, Black Rocks and the cliffs of Crich Stand. Bonsll. At the end of the lane, there’s Bonsall, whose Perpendicular church tower and spire has been beckoning you onwards for some time. In the centre of this old lead mining village is a sloping market square with a 17th-century cross. The Kings Head Inn, built in 1677, overlooks the square, and is said to be haunted. The lane out of Bonsall takes you to the edge of an area of old mine shafts and modern-day quarries. Here you’re diverted into the woods above the Via Gellia, a valley named after Philip Gell who built the road from the quarry to the Cromford Canal. Those who wish can make a short diversion from the woodland path to see the Arkwright Centre and the canal in Cromford (see Walk 45). The main route swings north, back into the woods of the Derwent Valley, passing the high hamlet of Upperwood, where fleeting views of Matlock appear through the trees. While you're there: Explore the Heights of Abraham by taking the Alpine-style cable car, built in 1984. Included in the fare are the showcaves. There’s also an interpretation centre and a restaurant in the complex. Where to eat and drink: The Kings Head Inn at Bonsall is a fine old pub that is said to be haunted. They prepare very good bar meals here. Alternatively, you could try the Barley Mow on The Dale in Bonsall. This is a popular 17th-century inn with real ales and a reputation for serving excellent food. What to look out for: St John’s Chapel was designed and built in 1897 by Sir Guy Dauber for Mrs Harris, who lived at Rock House. It was meant to serve the parishioners who found it difficult to reach St Giles at Matlock, but also it was a place for those worshippers who preferred a High Church service Directions: Cross the A6 and then take St John’s Road up the wooded slopes opposite. It passes beneath St John’s Chapel to reach the gates of Cliffe House. Take the path on the right signposted ‘Heights of Abraham’. The path climbs steeply upwards through the woods before veering left across the fields above Masson Farm. 2 Beyond the farmhouse and with Victoria Prospect Tower directly ahead, the waymarked path swings right and climbs up to the top of the field. Beyond this the footpath threads through hawthorn thickets before passing one of the entrances to the Heights of Abraham complex. 3 Ignore an obvious, engineered path and continue uphill along the perimeter of the complex and then turn left, going over a wall stile. After crossing a wide vehicle track the narrow footpath re-enters woodland. 4 At the far side of the woods, turn right on to a farm track close to Ember Farm. Join a pleasant lane that winds down pastured hillslopes into Bonsall village. 5 Turn left by the church along a lane that becomes unsurfaced when you get beyond Town End Farm. The lane finally comes to an abrupt end by the high fences of a quarry. Turn left here and follow a wide track around the perimeter of the quarry. 6 Where the fence ends, continue down the track, bending sharply right then left along a narrow path through woodland high above the Via Gellia, then take the left fork after about 300 yds (274m). 7 Turn left when you reach the next junction, following the footpath waymarked for the Derwent Valley Walk (DVW). This climbs further up the wooded bank, then turns left, tracing a mossy wall on the right. It rakes across the wooded hillside, passes above Cromford Court, then climbs away past some cave entrances to a lane at Upperwood. Ignore the next DVW sign and continue along the lane between cottages and past the West Lodge entrance to the Heights of Abraham showcave. 8 After 100yds (91m) leave the surfaced road for a stepped path through the woods on the left, signed ‘Matlock’. Climb some steps to a high wooden footbridge over the Heights of Abraham approach road, and then continue on the woodland path. You’ll pass under the Heights of Abraham cable cars before joining a farm track that has come in from the left. 9 This joins St John’s Lane and the outward route at Cliffe House. Retrace your steps to the start.