Scared Worship on Stanton Moor

About trip

Stanton Moor is a small and distinctive upthrust of gritstone amid the limestone dales of the White Peak. It’s moorland in miniature, where heather and silver birch provides a marked contrast to the rolling pasture and undulating river valleys all around. To the east it looks down on to the Derwent Valley and Matlock, while to the west there are panoramic views across to Bakewell and the valley of the River Wye. Dancing on the Sabbath. There has been human activity on Stanton Moor for thousands of years. The whole of the moor is a Scheduled Ancient Monument, dotted with dozens of ancient cairns, barrows and tumuli, although much of it is hidden by heather, gorse and bilberry. Since the Bronze Age, settlers have favoured the moor for the protection that this high vantage point must have offered. However, it’s association with Druids and ritual worship that has made Stanton Moor particularly well known. Nine Ladies stone circle, situated in a clearing in the silver birch, has nine stones, which are supposed to represent women that were caught dancing on the Sabbath and turned to stone. The King Stone, set back from the circle, is the unfortunate fiddler. Antiquarians over the centuries have made much of Stanton Moor as a magnet for Druidical activity, with the bizarre rock carvings at Rowtor Rocks interpreted as sacrificial basins, altars and rock cells for some ungodly practice. Although there’s little evidence of ritual worship and human sacrifice ever having taken place, the moor exudes an air of mystery that makes it a great place to explore. And if you visit during the summer solstice you will be treated to the sight of hundreds of Pagan revellers, travellers and hippies celebrating around Nine Ladies – so perhaps the Druids’ tradition lives on. Gritstone blocks and towers: On the route across the moor you will pass several giant blocks of gritstone standing isolated among the heather. Each has its own name – the Cork Stone, Heart Stone, Twopenny Loaf and the Cat Stone. They are all natural lumps of stone, weathered into fantastic shapes. Some believe that they were once probably objects of Pagan worship, although now their devotees are usually climbers who use them for practice or ‘bouldering’. As you walk along the eastern edge of the moor you’ll pass what’s known as the Earl Grey Tower. This folly was built by the Thornhill family, whose descendants still live at nearby Stanton Hall, to celebrate the passing of Grey’s historic Reform Bill in 1832 which gave men the vote. The square stone tower (National Trust) is no longer open due to safety reasons While you're there: Robin Hood’s Stride is a distinctive group of gritstone rocks on the skyline between Birchover and Youlgreave. It also goes by the name of Mock Beggars’ Hall, since from a distance its two rock towers resemble tall chimneys. Inevitably, Robin Hood is supposed to have leapt from one rock to the other in one giant stride! Nearby, beneath Cratcliff Rocks, is a Hermit’s Cave dating from the 14th century with a crucifix carved on its wall. Where to eat and drink: Birchover has two decent pubs. The Red Lion Inn is a traditional village local, with well-kept real ale and a varied menu served daily. Muddy boots and dogs are welcome in the tap room. The Druid Inn offers more upmarket fare and also opens lunchtime and evening, including all day at weekends. What to look out for: In this area of rocky outcrops, Rowtor Rocks is certainly one of the most intriguing. You reach it up a narrow path beside the Druid Inn, and amid the jumble of huge gritstone blocks you will find rocking stones, excavated holes and caves, narrow staircases, basins and seats all carved out of the bare rock. It’s a bizarre place, but watch out for some sheer drops. Directions: From the Druid Inn at the end of Main Street take the signposted footpath on the bend opposite. Follow this up along a wooded ridge above the village. Where it ends at a quarry car park go left on to the road. After 0.25 miles (400m) turn right for a signposted path on to the moor. 2 Go over a stile and veer left at the Cork Stone for a wide path across the middle of the heather moor. Stay on the main path as it enters silver birch scrub, then swing right on a wide grassy track, with a fence over to the left, until you reach Nine Ladies. 3 At Nine Ladies, walk to the interpretation panel and turn left on the main path. In 50 yds (46m) fork right for a path through the gorse and heather. Go over a stile and turn right on to a path along the high wooded edge of the moor to Earl Grey Tower. Continue on this now open path until you reach a stile in the fence on your right. 4 Cross over the stile and at the junction of tracks turn left. At a crossroads of routes turn left again, downhill, to reach the road. Turn right and walk along this for 50yds (46m) and go left on a footpath. 5 Follow this well-signposted route along the left-hand edge of a camping field, and then around some buildings and ahead on a rough farm track along the righthand edge of two successive fields. When you meet the unsurfaced Clough Lane turn right. 6 Walk along the lane to its end, at Cowley Knoll Farm. Turn left on to a surfaced lane and almost immediately turn right, by Uppertown Farm, for a gated path through fields. After hugging a wall on the right the path continues past a cottage and begins a huge loop around the hilly outcrop of Bradley Rocks. At the far end go through a gate to reach a path junction. 7 Unless you are extending the walk to visit Robin Hood’s Stride, ignore the path downhill to the left and continue with the level track as it swings back east towards Birchover. Joining a gravel drive on a bend, take the lower route and at a crossroads of lanes go straight on past the church to return to Birchover village and Main Street. If you want to explore Rowtor Rocks look for the narrow path on the left just before the Druid Inn. Extending the Walk. You can extend this walk at 7 to visit Robin Hood’s Stride and the Hermit’s Cave. Follow the path steeply down to the road in the valley bottom, turn left and cross over for the path up to the rocks. Return the same way.