King of Belvoir Castle

About trip

First, the small matter of pronunciation. In these parts ‘Belvoir’ sounds like ‘Beaver’, although quite why this should be is unclear because its history dates back to Norman times when William the Conqueror gave the land to his standard-bearer Robert de Todeni. The original castle was called ‘Belvedere’, a term still used in landscape architecture to denote an elevated room offering good views. Belvoir Castle passed through many hands over the centuries, and was virtually destroyed on more than one occasion. The most recent was during the Civil War, when Woolsthorpe’s original church was also reduced to rubble (the present one dates from 1848). In 1508 the castle came into the hands of the Manners family, and is currently home to the latest in the line, the 11th Duke of Rutland. However the present castle dates mainly from the early 19th century and is in the ‘romantic’ style of the day, with elaborate turrets and battlements. Both the castle and its grounds are open to the public from Easter to September (visit www.belvoircastle.com for precise opening times). There is an impressive collection of artwork and period furniture, costumed guides giving a glimpse of life ‘below stairs’, and a restaurant and ice-cream parlour. Regular special events are held throughout the summer including country fairs, concerts and medieval jousting. A Lost Canal. In contrast to the bustle and activity of the Grand Union Canal at Foxton Locks, the Grantham Canal appears rather forlorn and overlooked. It was built 1793–7 and provided a 33-mile (53km) link between Nottingham and Grantham via Leicestershire. Despite competition from the Nottingham–Grantham railway it was initially profitable, and was used to transport local produce such as iron ore from the hills above Woolsthorpe, which was taken via the Trent and the Erewash Canal to the ironworks at Ilkeston. But the waterway’s business was finally dashed by the construction of the (now defunct) Belvoir branch ironstone railway in 1883, which you can see running parallel with the canal to join the Nottingham–Grantham line to the north. The canal was abandoned in 1936 and, despite the intentions of a restoration trust to make it navigable, it is now a quiet and largely overlooked thoroughfare. There are clear stretches, and British Waterways has kept most of the permissive tow path in a walkable state, but in places the weeds and rushes and luxuriant vegetation have almost choked the waterway. While you're there: The attractive12th-century St Mary the Virgin Church at Bottesford has the highest spire in Leicestershire (210ft/64m). The tombs and effigies of the various incumbents of Belvoir Castle include that of Francis, the 6th Earl of Rutland, who lies between his first and second wives. Two of his sons are recorded as dying by witchcraft. What to look for: Towards the end of the walk, on the wooded hilltop east of Woolsthorpe, is a place marked as Brewer’s Grave, so called because it is believed to be the last resting place of an unfortunate brewer from Belvoir Castle who one night drank too much and accidentally drowned in a vat of his own ale. Where to eat and drink: The two popular local pubs both serve food lunchtime and evening and offer outdoor seating. The Chequers at Woolsthorpe, off oolsthorpe’s Main Street, is a handsome old country pub overlooking the cricket pitch, while the Dirty Duck (formerly Rutland Arms Inn) is located a mile (1.6km) north of the village by the canal and includes a large outdoor play area for children. Belvoir Castle has a restaurant and ice-cream parlour for visitors. Directions: Walk northwards out of the village of Woolsthorpe by Belvoir on the pavement of Sedgebrook Road, the continuation of Main Street, towards Bottesford. Turn right into the wide-verged lane for the Rutland Arms public house (signposted) and cross over the canal bridge at Woolsthorpe Wharf. Turn left and follow the straight, grassy bank along the Grantham Canal until Stenwith Bridge (No 60). Climb the steps to your right, just before reaching the bridge, and turn right on to the road. Follow this over the old railway bridge and out along a lovely wide lane of oak trees. After 700yds (640m) it bends left, and here turn right. Follow the initially hedged and unmade Longmoor Lane for just over 0.75 mile (1.2km). When you reach the far end turn left before the bridge, to join the gravel tow path, and walk along this as far as an elegant wooden arched bridge (‘Bridle Bridge’). Cross over the bridge and head out across the middle of a wide arable field. Go over the course of the old railway again and continue up the left-hand side of a sloping field. At the top, turn left on to a well-walked track. Follow this pleasant route with lovely views out towards the hills surrounding Grantham. Where the track kinks left, after a fenced section, go straight on right across a wide field – follow the direction of the public footpath signpost and aim for the hedge opening at the very far side. Go across Cliff Road for a track into woodland. 6 At the far side of the woods, cross the stile and turn right to follow the field-edge down the bumpy, grassy slope back to Woolsthorpe. There are excellent views across the head of the Vale of Belvoir to Belvoir Castle opposite. At the bottom of the slope go over the stile behind the cricket scorebox, along the edge of the pitch (the football ground to your left), and down the drive of the pub to reach the village centre. If you want to extend the walk to visit Belvoir Castle, turn left into Main Street, then right into Belvoir Lane. At the end of this cul-de-sac go over a small bridge and continue ahead across fields towards the hilltop fortification. After the third stile, cross another stile to your right and follow this wide track uphill to the road, then turn left to the castle entrance.