Ministering the Flock

About trip

The small Nottinghamshire market town of Southwell is dominated by the 12th-century minster, which was technically elevated to the status of a cathedral when the new Diocese of Southwell was created in 1884. Make sure you set aside some time to explore this spacious and splendid building which has a fine example of a Norman nave, plus a chapter house containing intricate 13th-century carvings of leaves, which were supposedly modelled on trees from the old Sherwood Forest. Outside are the ruins of an earlier archbishops’ palace, while the two distinctive conical towers make the minster a recognisable landmark from several points on the walk. While you're there: The Workhouse at Southwell, managed by the National Trust, is a well-preserved 19th-century workhouse, with costumed guides and audio tours giving a fascinating insight into poverty in Victorian England (open March to October). What to look for: On the streets adjoining the Minster are a number of highly elegant mansions known as Prebendal Houses. These were the town homes of the 16 secular canons who originally formed the Chapter of the Collegiate Church, and who were collectively called Prebendaries because they received incomes from endowed estates. Where to eat and drink: Plenty of cafés and pubs in Southwell. Two to look out for are the Minster Refectory (by the exhibition centre and shop on Church Street) and the Saracens Head on Westgate. Directions: From the car park, facing the minster, turn right on to Church Street and walk up to the junction at the top. In a 16th-century inn opposite, originally called the King’s Head, Charles I spent his last hours of freedom before surrendering to the Scottish army which was at Newark Castle. The inn’s name was changed to the Saracens Head when Charles was beheaded. Turn right, then cross the road and turn left into Queen Street. Follow this for 350yds (320m), then turn left on to a short drive, opposite a road called The Ropewalk. At the end, continue uphill on an alleyway by a school, and at the far corner turn right along the top of the playing field. At a junction of paths go forwards, down a few steps, and on along a path behind gardens. Eventually you cross a road and continue on a field-edge path on the far side. Where this approaches the bend of a road turn sharply right for a short path across the field. Cross the road at the far side and go through a gap in the hedge to pick up a broad track past a fruit farm (masses of strawberries are a common sight here) and an orchard on the right. Another of Southwell’s claims to fame involves the humble apple. According to the story, nurseryman Henry Merryweather took a cutting from a new and unusual apple tree in the garden of a cottage in Church Street belonging to a Matthew Bramley, some time around 1850. The propagation proved successful and the classic English cooking apple has never looked back. It’s celebrated locally in the Southwell Galette, a delectable pastry confection of sultanas, hazelnuts and Bramley apples. Continue straight ahead through the orchards until you reach a junction of paved lanes. To the left is a rather grand-looking house, while to the right is a small fishing lake. This is all part of Norwood Park, the last surviving of four elegant parks created around Southwell for the Archbishop of York, since Southwell was originally one of three collegiate churches in the huge York Diocese (the others were Beverley and Ripon). Keep straight ahead past the golf course on your right. At the road at the end turn right, then turn left almost immediately on to a lane indicated ‘Maythorne’. After a couple of bends the lane is crossed by the former Mansfield –Southwell railway line, which has been turned into a pleasant walking and cycling route known as the Southwell Trail. For a quicker and easier return to Southwell, turn right and follow its unswerving course for just under 1 mile (1.6km) to the car park at the end. Otherwise continue to the far end of the lane and go through the former mill buildings in order to turn left, across the bridge, and then veer right at a choice of paths. Go over a short footbridge and stile, and turn right for a riverside path along the River Greet (this is also the route of the waymarked Robin Hood Way). After just over a mile (1.6km) you reach another converted mill building. Turn right on to Station Road and walk up past the Southwell Trail car park and The Newcastle Arms pub to the crossroads. Go over this and walk across the tree-lined Burgage Green. On the right is an intimidating stone gatehouse complete with iron grid bars, all that remains of a 19th-century ‘House of Correction’. At the war memorial at the far end take the side road half left, and at the end of this turn left on to Burgage Lane. Just before Hill House turn right on to a narrow alleyway called Becher’s Walk which will take you all the way down to Church Street. Turn right for the minster and car park.