A Rutland Waterside Walk

About trip

That England'€™s smallest county contains its biggest stretch of inland water is impressive enough, but in fact Rutland Water’s beautifully designed 3,100 acres (1,255ha) also make it one of the largest artificial lakes in the whole of Western Europe. Work began in 1973 with the flooding of the Gwash Valley and abandonment of the two villages of Nether and Middle Hambleton, leaving Upper Hambleton (now simply called Hambleton) virtually marooned on an island in the middle of the lake. Although the reservoir was created in order to supply drinking water, Rutland Water has become a busy destination for outdoor pursuits. Sailing and windsurfing are very popular, while fishermen are to be found on the shores and out in boats in virtually all weathers. There are picnic sites along the northern edge, a museum at the preserved church at Normanton on the southern shore, and afternoon cruises on the Rutland Belle that plies the water daily between May and September. A 25-mile (40km) off-road cycling route encompasses the whole of Rutland Water, and cycle hire is available at Whitwell and Normanton in the summer months. An Ornithological Feast. The nature reserve at the far western end of Rutland Water is managed by Leicestershire and Rutland Wildlife Trust, and your first port of call should be the Anglian Water Bird Watching Centre at Egleton. From here you can obtain a permit to walk to the 20 different hides that are dotted around the secluded bays and artificially created lagoons, or go on to visit Lyndon Nature Reserve on the southern side of Manton Bay. Rutland Water is one of the most important centres for wildfowl in Britain – as many as 23,500 ducks have been recorded on a single winter’s day, and a total of 250 different species of birds have been seen since 1975. Ducks such as pochard, teal, gadwall and shoveler are a common sight around Rutland Water, while waders like redshank and sandpipers are frequent visitors. An hour or two in a hide and your list will probably include terns, lapwing, cormorants, grebes, and so on, plus perhaps a few more unusual sightings such as a merganser or a godwit. However, there is one rare fish-eating bird that has had the birders fumbling at their binocular cases over the past few years. In 1996 a programme was initiated to translocate young osprey chicks from Scotland to Rutland, and since then several of these majestic birds of prey have returned from their hazardous African migration to set up home at Rutland – the first time ospreys have nested in England in more than 150 years. However, the longterm fate of the Rutland ospreys is far from secure, since the birds mate for life and have very few chicks, but with careful protection and gentle encouragement the outlook for the so-called fish eagles is hopeful. While you're there: Just to the south of Rutland Water is the picturesque village of Wing, where apart from two decent pubs there is a most unusual and historic maze. Cut into the roadside turf near the recreation ground, Wing Maze is based on an 11-ringed design often found on the floors of medieval French cathedrals. Wing itself once had a monastery, and it’s possible that the monks may have followed the lines of the maze, stopping to pray at certain points. What to look for: It’s said that there’s no higher land between Upper Hambleton and the Wash and, although modest in height, the hilltop position of the village of course spared it from the watery fate that claimed its neighbours. Among the views from the peninsula is Burley on the Hill, a striking mansion on a densely wooded ridge to the north that was built for David Finch, Earl of Nottingham, between 1694 and 1705. Where to eat and drink: The Finch’s Arms at Hambleton is an elegant public house where the emphasis is on high-quality bar food and restaurant meals, and from the back terrace there are great views out across the northern sweep of Rutland Water. Booking is advisable for peak times. A full range of cafés and pubs is to be found in Oakham, 3 miles (4.8km) away. Directions: From St Andrew’s Church in the centre of Hambleton, walk eastwards on the long main street as far as the red pillar box. Turn left opposite the pillar box on a wide track indicated ‘public footpath’ that leads straight through a gate and down the middle of a sloping field. Go through the gate at the bottom of the field and turn right on to the wide track that runs just above the shore. This popular and peaceful route around the Hambleton peninsula is shared with cyclists, so enjoy the walk, but be alert. Follow it from field to field, and through Armley Wood, with ever-changing views across Rutland Water. As you gradually swing around the tip of the Hambleton peninsula with views towards the dam at the eastern end, you can begin to appreciate the sheer size of the reservoir, and how the birds, anglers, sailors and other users can all happily co-exist. When you arrive at a tarmac lane (which is gated to traffic at this point, since it simply disappears into the water a little further on!), go straight across to continue on the same unmade track. It turns right and runs parallel with the road a short distance, before heading left and back towards the peaceful water’s edge and a lovely section of mixed woodland. Continue along the lakeside for just over 1 mile (1.6km). Approaching The Old Hall, a handsome building perched just above the shore, turn left to reach its surfaced drive, then go right and walk along it for 160yds (146m) to reach a cattle grid. At this point you can return directly to Hambleton by following the lane back uphill; otherwise veer left to continue along the open, waterside track, with views across to Egleton Bay and the corner of Rutland Water specially reserved for wildlife (it’s out of bounds to sailing boats). After about 500yds (457m) look for the easily missed stile in the hedge on your right, and the public footpath that heads straight up the field. (If you overshoot, or want to extend the walk by 0.5 mile (800m), simply carry on along the track to the very far end and return along the lane to the village.) Aim for the apex of the field, where successive stiles lead to a narrow passageway between a hedge and a fence that eventually brings you out in the churchyard in the centre of the village.