Blakeney Eye's Magical Marches
Blakeney was a prosperous port in medieval times, but went into decline when its sea channels began to silt up. However, although the merchants decried the slow accumulation of salt marsh and sand bars, birds began to flock here in their thousands. By Victorian times it had become such a favoured spot with feathered migrants that it became known as the place to go shooting and collecting. Some sportsmen just wanted to kill the many waterfowl, while others were more interested in trophy collecting - looking for species that were rare or little-known. The maxim âwhatâs hit is history; whatâs missed is mysteryâ was very characteristic of the Victoriansâ attitude to biological science. Many of these hapless birds ended up stuffed in museums or private collections.
Nature Reserve. After many years of bloody slaughter the National Trust arrived in 1912 and purchased the area from Cley Beach to the tip of the sand and shingle peninsula of Blakeney Point. It became one of the first nature reserves to be safeguarded in Britain. Today it is a fabulous place for a walk, regardless of whether you are interested in ornithology. A bright summer day will show you glittering streams, salt-scented grasses waving gently in the breeze and pretty-sailed yachts bobbing in the distance. By contrast, a wet and windy day in winter will reveal the stark beauty of this place, with the distant roar of white-capped waves pounding the beach, rain-drenched vegetation and a menacing low-hung sky filled with scudding clouds. It doesnât matter what the weather is like at Blakeney, because a walk here is always invigorating. Although these days we regard the Victoriansâ wholesale slaughter with distaste, they did leave behind them a legacy of valuable information. It was 19th-century trophy hunters who saw the Pallasâ warbler and the yellow-breasted bunting in Britain for the first time - and they were seen at Blakeney. A little later, when the Cley Bird Observatory operated here between 1949 and 1963, the first subalpine warbler in Norfolk wascaptured and ringed. The Victoriansâ records tell us that a good many red-spotted bluethroats appeared in September and October, and any collector who happened to visit then was almost certain to bag one. In the 1950s the observatory discovered that these were becoming rare at this time of year. Today, bluethroats are regular spring visitors but are seldom seen in the autumn. It is thought that this change over time is related to different weather patterns and indicates how climate change, even on this small scale, can dramatically effect the behaviour of birds.
While you're there: Morston Marshes are in the care of the National Trust and are an important site for migrating wrynecks, icterine and barred warblers. If you have time, a boat trip out to see the seals is a rewarding experience. These endearing creatures breed and bask on the isolated sandbars to the north.
What to look out for: Blakeney Point and its marshes is one of the best birdwing areas in Norfolk. What you see depends on the time of year, but in the winter you can expect a huge variety of waterfowl, along with curlews, rock pipets and hen harriers. In early summer, plovers and terns arrive, while high summer and autumn are the best seasons, with the potential for spotting hundreds of different species of birds.
Where to eat and drink: In Blakeney the Kabin sandwich bar in the car park operates between Easter and October, and sells snacks, tea and coffee. The Blakeney Hotel, Manor Hotel, White Horse and Kingâs Arms all have restaurants and bar food. There are also several shops for picnic supplies. The Moorings Bistro serves tea and coffee as well as meals. On the walk itself you can try the Wiveton Bell.
Directions:
From the car park head for the wildfowl conservation project, a fenced-off area teeming with ducks, geese and widgeon. A species list has been mounted on one side, so you can see how many you can spot. Take the path marked Norfolk Coast Path out towards the marshes. This raised bank is part of the sea defences, and is managed by the Environment Agency. Eventually, you have salt marshes on both sides.
At the turning, head east. Carmelite friars once lived around here, although there is little to see of their chapel, the remains of which are located just after you turn by the wooden staithe (landing stage) to head south again. This part of the walk is excellent for spotting kittiwakes and terns in late summer. Also, look for Sabineâs gull, manx and sooty shearwaters, godwits, turnstones and curlews. The path leads you past Cley Windmill, built in 1810 and which last operated in 1919. It is open to visitors and you can climb to the top to enjoy the view across the marshes. Follow signs for the Norfolk Coast Path until you reach the A149.
Cross the A149 to the pavement opposite, then turn right. Take the first left after crossing the little creek. Eventually you reach the cobblestone houses of Wiveton and a crossroads; go straight ahead.
Take the grassy track opposite Primrose Farm, to a T-junction. This is Blakeney Road; turn right along it. However, if you want refreshments before the homeward stretch, turn left and walk a short way to the Wiveton Bell. The lane is wide and ahead you will see St Nicholasâ Church nestling among trees. This dates from the 13th century, but was extended in the 14th. Its two towers served as navigation beacons for sailors, and the east, narrower one is floodlit at night.
At the A149 there are two lanes opposite you. Take the High Street fork on the left to walk through the centre of Blakeney village. Many cottages are owned by the Blakeney Neighbourhood Housing Society, which rents homes to those locals unable to buy their own. Donât miss the 14th-century Guildhall undercroft at the bottom of Marinerâs Hill. After you have explored the area, continue to the car park.
Gentle Walk
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