Banks of the Caledonian Canel

About trip

Minimum Time: 1hr 45mins Ascent: 100ft Difficulty Level: 1 - Easy Paths: Wide tow paths, no stiles Landscape: Banks of wide canal, shore of tidal loch Dog Friendliness: Sensible dogs off lead on tow path Parking: Kilmallie Hall, Corpach Public Toilets: None en route Description: Scotland’s great coast-to-coast canal, opened in 1822, is just one of the masterpieces of civil engineering by Thomas Telford. The poet laureate, Robert Southey (1774-1843) referred to Telford as ‘Pontifex Maximus’, the Biggest Bridge-builder. As well as the oldstyle stone bridge, Telford became the master of two entirely new techniques - the cast-iron arch and the first suspension bridges. While working on the canal, he was also building 600 miles (965km) of new roads, as well as enlarging most of Scotland’s harbours. While you're there: Much to Telford’s distress, the canal was a loss-making enterprise from the day it opened. One reason was the coming of the railways. At Banavie, the West Highland Railway is Britain’s most beautiful. During the summer, the steampowered Jacobite Steam Train runs daily to Mallaig and back. What to look out for: From Fort William, Britain’s biggest hill appears as a mere hump. The canalside, however, gives the best view into the great Northern Corrie of Ben Nevis. On its right-hand side, aranged one behind the other, rise the buttresses of the country’s largest crag. Across the back runs a narrow edge of granite, linking it to the neighbouring Carn Mor Dearg. This arête is the mountaineers’ preferred route to the big Ben. Where to eat and drink: The Moorings Inn at Banavie offers restaurant and bar meals to canal users and visitors. On the other side of both the A830 and canal, the unassuming Lochy family pub has picnic tables and promises ‘massive portions’. At the walk start, a Keystore shop on the main road sells hot pies and the Kilmallie Hall has a community garden with picnic tables to eat them at. Directions: Go down past Corpach Station to the canal and cross the sea lock that separates salt water from fresh water. Follow the canal (on your left) up past another lock, where a path on the right has a blue cycle path sign and a Great Glen Way marker. It passes under tall sycamores to the shore. Follow the shoreline path past a football pitch and then turn left, across damp grass to the end of a back street. A path ahead leads up a wooded bank to the tow path. Work on the canal started in 1803 during the Napoleonic war, and each of its 29 locks is designed to take a 40-gun frigate of Nelson’s navy. Roughly 20 million wheelbarrow loads of earth were shifted over the next 19 years. Turn right along the tow path, for 0.5 mile (800m). Just before the Banavie swing bridge, a path down to the right has a Great Glen Way marker. Follow waymarkers on street signs to a level crossing, then turn left towards the other swing bridge, the one with the oad on it. Just before the bridge, turn right at signs for the Great Glen Way and the Great Glen Cycle Route and continue along the tow path to Neptune’s Staircase. The fanciful name was given to the locks by Telford himself. The 60ft (18m) of ascent alongside the eight locks is the serious uphill part of this walk, but more serious for boats of course. It takes about 90 minutes to work through the system. As each lock fills, slow roiling currents come up from underneath, like bath water emptying but in reverse, and as each empties, water forced under pressure into the banks emerges from the masonry in little fountains. A gate ends the basin above the locks. About 200yds (183m) later, a grey gate on the right leads to a dump for dead cars; ignore this one. Just 220yds (201m) later the canal crosses a little wooded valley, with a black fence on the right. Now comes a second grey gate. Go through, to a track turning back sharp right and descending to ford a small stream. On the right, the stream passes right under the canal in an arched tunnel, and alongside is a second tunnel which provides a walkers’ way to the other side. Water from the canal drips into the tunnel, which has a fairly spooky atmosphere - try not to think of the large boats sailing directly over your head! At the tunnel’s end, a track runs up to join the canal’s northern tow path. Turn right, back down the tow path. After passing Neptune’s Staircase, cross the A830 to a level crossing without warning lights. Continue along the right-hand tow path. After a mile (1.6km) the tow path track leads back to the Corpach double lock.