Fenland's Big Skies and Twitching in Ouse Washes

About trip

The Ouse Washes Nature Reserve is run by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) and Cambridgeshire Wildlife Trust. Entrance is free throughout the year. The reserve covers 2,471 acres (1,000ha) of wet grassland that lie in a wide strip almost 20 miles (32 km) long and 1 mile (1.6km) wide between the Old and New Bedford Rivers. These two artificial cuts are backed by huge embankments that were designed to act as a storage tank when the winter rains would otherwise have flooded the land. Today the area forms the largest area of regularly flooding ‘washland’ in Britain, and after the flood waters have subsided ducks and waders nest in the fields before cattle are introduced in the summer to keep the grass and sedge short. In winter, ducks, such as pochard, garganey, teal and pintail, are all regular visitors, plus the likes of migrating Bewick’s and whooper swans. Over 53,000 wigeon dropped by during the winter of 1989–9. Summer has its own attractions, including lapwings and kingfishers, and perhaps the sight of a marsh harrier gliding low over the ground in search of his tea. The network of dykes and pools also supports other wildlife such as dragonflies. Access to the nature reserve is limited to the bank of the Old Bedford Barrier, which defines its western edge. Fenland’s Capital that Never Was. An early supporter of the ambitious drainage scheme was King Charles I, who owned 12,000 acres (4,860ha) of wetland surrounding Manea. He backed the enterprise of the early speculators to such an extent that he even took the lead in designing a brand new capital for the Fens. Complete with a royal palace for himself, the town was to be sited near Manea and would be called Charlemont. Alas, he unfortunately lost his head before his dream could be realised. While you're there: The Wisbech and Fenland Museum in the centre of Wisbech has a fascinating display exploring the landscape and history of the Fens. The museum, housed in a purpose-built Victorian building with many of its period fixtures and fittings, has other wide-ranging displays and exhibits that include the original manuscript of Charles Dickens’s Great Expectations and an ivory chess set that once belonged to Louis XIV. What to look for: The area around Manea is sometimes known as the Black Fens, because of its dark-coloured soils which are chiefly derived from peat. The high-yielding land means that intensive arable farming dominates, with very little livestock. As you walk through the vast, hedgeless fields look about you – depending on the time of year you may see huge fields of onions, potatoes, cereals, sugar beet, carrots or oilseed rape. Where to eat and drink: The Rose and Crown pub on Manea’s High Street has limited opening hours, as does the nearby fish and chip shop on Station Road. The Ship Inn at Purls Bridge makes a good midway lunch stop, or you can take a picnic to the Ouse Washes Nature Reserve from the supermarket in Park Road at the start of the walk. Directions: With the Rose and Crown pub on your left, walk eastwards along Manea High Street and follow it round to the left as it becomes Station Road, then turn right for the public footpath alongside the primary school. At the football pitch at the far end turn right and go past Manea Wood, planted in 1997 for the local community with ash, oak, white willow, birch and common alder. Continue along the path as it bears right and approaches Bearts Farm. Turn left by the old barns and sheds for the wide track out into the fields, and bear right at a junction of tracks to reach an attractive reedy lake known locally as ‘the Pit’. This was originally dug for clay, which was then transported across the fields on a light railway to shore up the banks of the nearby Old and New Bedford Rivers. The Pit is now a popular place for fishermen and wildlife alike At the end of the track turn right on to a lane, with the lake still on your right, then, when you reach the junction at the corner of the road, turn left, on to Straight Road, and follow this through the fields to the end. Turn left on to Purls Bridge Drove, signposted ‘Welches Dam’ and ‘RSPB reserve’. Follow this open lane all the way to Purls Bridge, by the Old Bedford River. Continue along the bank to reach the Ouse Washes Nature Reserve, where there’s a visitor centre and public toilets. The ten hides are all free to enter, and binoculars are even available to borrow at the visitor centre near Welches Dam (open daily, 9am to 5pm). From here cross the bridge by the pumping and turn right for the hides known as Welches Dam, Rickwood and Common Wash, the furthest of which is just under 1 mile (1.6km) distant. For the more remote and undisturbed hides turn left by the pump house and walk along the bottom of the bank rather than the top (so as not to scare the birds). The furthest is Stevens Hide, just under 2 miles (3.2km) away. In each hide there are identification charts and wide views across this arresting landscape towards the outline of Ely Cathedral. To continue on the walk go back to the visitor centre and return along the lane for 440yds (402m) . Turn left for the signposted public bridleway by some dark wooden sheds. Known as Old Mill Drove, this runs directly across the open fields as far as the rusting farm machinery and outbuildings of Boon’s Farm. Turn right and walk along the dead-straight Barnes’s Drove for 1.25 miles (2km) until you reach the road at the far end. Turn left and after 150yds (137m) turn off right through a gate for a public footpath across the fields back into Manea. The route zig-zags between a series of paddocks – just follow the clear yellow waymarks and aim for the fire station tower. At the far side cross a stile and turn right, past the village stores, to follow the main road back to the centre.