Flights of Fancy at Foxton Locks

About trip

Although it might be tempting to regard Britain’s canal system as an antiquated relic, a visit to the Grand Union Canal at Foxton Locks proves that it is not only still working but also remains very popular. The highlight at Foxton is a staircase of ten locks which raises the canal by 75ft (23m). It takes a boat an average of 45 minutes to negotiate all ten locks, as well as the small matter of displacing 25,000 gallons (113,650 litres) of water for the entire passage. The locks were opened in 1814, but because they were so narrow created something of a bottleneck, and 60 years later a mechanical lift known as an ‘inclined plane’ was built to enable boats to be transported much more quickly. From the black-and-white photographs on show in the museum these two counterbalancing docks or tanks (which ran on rails up and down the hillside) must have been quite a spectacle, and cut the journey through Foxton down to as little as eight minutes. Unfortunately canal traffic was already waning, thanks to the competition from railway and road traffic, so the inclined plane operated for just ten years. By 1928 the equipment was sold for scrap, leaving only the grassed-over rails. A New Lease of Life. Today there are more boats on Britain’s canals than in the commercial days, and places such as Foxton Locks are a popular visitor attraction. The fascinating Foxton Canal Museum is open daily from April to October (weekends only in winter) and is housed in the former boiler house of the inclined plane, while the pubs cater for canal traffic and tourists alike. At the basin below the locks, a 6-mile (9.7km) arm leads to Market Harborough, although most craft head up and down the main Grand Union route. Boats can be hired, or else you can just enjoy a short afternoon cruise up and down the waterway on board The Vagabond. In fact, things have gone so far full circle that the Foxton Locks Partnership is even talking of restoring the site to its former glory and reintroducing the artificial lift. Whatever your level of interest, there is something undeniably fascinating about watching a handsome and colourful narrowboat negotiate the ten locks at Foxton. Perhaps it has something to do with the sheer ingenuity of displacing water to raise or lower a large craft, and the quiet and unhurried nature of it all. Or possibly it’s simply nice to watch someone else hard at work. Either way, what can beat idling by a picturesque lock deep in the middle of the Leicestershire countryside. While you're there: Little more than 2 miles (3.2km) away is Market Harborough, a rare example of a planned medieval town. It was founded in the 12th century to promote local trade, and over time grew into an important market and coaching town. The Harborough Museum, situated in an old corset factory on Adam and Eve Street, has changing exhibitions and weekend events for children (and also houses the Symington Collection of Corsetry). The museum is set to reopen in 2009 with a new display on the South East Leicestershire Treasure, one of the most significant Iron Age and Roman finds ever discovered in Britain. What to look for: The brightly painted narrowboats that make the canal such a spectacle today should not be confused with barges. These are much larger craft, usually more than 14-ft (4m) wide and primarily involved in commercial traffic. Due to their size they tend to be found on rivers and wider canals. Where to eat and drink: The Foxton Locks Inn (formerly Bridge 61), part-owned by British Waterways, is a popular canalside pub and restaurant, while the old Bridge 61 has resurfaced in a tiny cottage across the basin with a log fire in winter. Walkers and dogs are welcome, and the pub has its own real ale. The Bell Inn at Gumley serves meals every lunchtime and evening, but children and dogs are not accepted. Directions: Turn left out of the car park and along the signposted path parallel with the road to reach the canal. Go right, under the road bridge, then over the footbridge, in order to turn right on the far bank and along the tow path to Foxton Locks. Descend the lock staircase to reach the basin at the bottom. Go ahead past the Bridge 61 pub and switch banks via the higharched brick footbridge (Rainbow Bridge). Walk out along the wide tow path beyond. Continue along this easy and peaceful route for 1.75 miles (2.8km), following the Grand Union Canal as it swings left beyond Debdale Wharf. Notice the large numbers of boats moored in the marina, some in preparation for repairs and renovation, while others are kept here permanently. There are lovely views over the open countryside towards Kibworth Beauchamp to the north. At bridge No 68 go over the stile on the right to cross the metal footbridge via two more stiles. On the far side make your way up the left-hand edge of a wide, sloping field to pass Debdale Grange. Continue alongside the top field to reach the lane that lies on the far side. Turn right, along the road for 0.25 mile (400m), then, approaching a road junction, go over the stile on the left for a signposted public footpath across the field. Take the right fork, aiming for the far edge of Gumley Wood – the left-hand path is signposted ‘Foxton’ and takes you straight back to the canal. Follow the path closely around the side of the plantation until the second stile, beside a section of fence used as a horse jump. From here strike out across a deeply undulating grassy field towards a metal gate below trees on the far side. If you want to visit the pub in the village of Gumley, go right before the gate for a short uphill path, otherwise aim half left through the next field. Go through another gate and directly out across more fields, separated by the farm drive, to return to the canal on the very far side. Cross the high, thin footbridge and turn right to return to the basin and locks. Walk back up beside the staircase, crossing over half-way up to visit the museum. From the museum follow the popular path up along its side (don’t cross the main canal again), then briefly double back to the left along a canal arm through some trees. Cross over a bridge and turn right along the tow path to return to the road bridge. Go under this and turn left to return to the car park.