A Revolting Queen at Caistor St Edmund

About trip

When the Romans invaded Britain, they built arrow-straight roads, established well-run, prosperous towns and developed industries like tile-making, salt and potteries. But not all the local tribes were pleased to be part of the Roman Empire. Rebel Queen. One rebel was Boudica, who had been married to King Prasutagus of the Iceni. The trouble started when Prasutagus died in ad 60. He was barely cold in his grave before the Roman procurator’s men arrived to grab property and money, and troops appeared to impose military law. One Roman insulted Boudica, who responded with anger, and in retaliation was flogged and her daughters raped. News of this outrage spread like wildfire throughout East Anglia and the revolt was born. Her headquarters are said to have been at or near Venta Icenorum at Caistor. Contemporary accounts tell us that Boudica was tall, with fierce eyes and a strident voice. She had a mane of tawny hair that tumbled to her waist and she wore a striking multicoloured tunic, a gold neck torc and a cloak held by a brooch. Female rulers were not unknown to the Iceni and they quickly rallied to her fiery speeches of rebellion and revenge. Other tribes joined the throng as Boudica’s army moved against the Romans, carrying huge shields and wearing their best battle gear. Retaliation. From Venta Icenorum to Colchester they marched, probably using the recently completed Roman road. The army grew until it was 100,000 strong, all angry and determined to exact revenge on their hated oppressors. Meanwhile, Colchester was wholly unprepared for the attack, because the civilians had been assured there was nothing to worry about - they had well-trained Roman soldiers to defend them. But as soon as the garrison spotted the enormous, vengeful throng, they abandoned their posts and fled for safety inside the temple of Claudius. The civilians were left to fend for themselves. A massacre followed of the most shocking magnitude. No one was spared and as many as 20,000 were killed. The wooden town was burned to the ground and the stone temple fell two days later. Boudica then moved on to London and St Albans, where the bloodshed continued. The Roman general Suetonius marched to meet her and the two forces met near St Albans. Suetonius’ well-trained military machine was outnumbered by the Britons, but reports say that the Romans destroyed 80,000 of the larger force - an appalling number of dead for any battle. Boudica probably poisoned herself after the defeat, but her legend lives on. This walk takes you through the lands she once ruled, some of it along the 38-mile (61km) footpath named in her honour. While you're there: You can see the outskirts of Norwich on parts of this walk, and Norfolk’s capital city has plenty to offer, from medieval buildings to modern art. The City of Norwich Aviation Museum lies 3 miles (4.8km) north of the city, while in the city itself the Forum building on Millennium Plain offers an interactive journey through time. Don’t miss Inspire, a hands-on science discovery exhibition, and the Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts. What to look out for: The wild flowers are worth seeking out. Between June and September look for common knapweed, which has hairy pink flowers and was once used to treat sore throats. Common mallows are also pink, have a thick, round stem, and large reddish-mauve flowers. Also look for viper’s bugloss, a member of the borage family, which has spiky, purplish-violet flowers. Where to eat and drink: The Wildebeest Arms in nearby Stoke Holy Cross has a family restaurant and offers bar meals as well as selling official leaflets about the Roman site. It has an attractive seating area outside. The Stoke Holy Cross post office also sells information leaflets, drinks and confectionery. Directions: The first part of the walk follows the marked circular trail around Venta Icenorum, so go through the gate next to the notice board at the car park. The trail is marked by red and white circles. Climb a flight of steps, then go down six to reach the huge bank that protected the town, with a deep ditch to your left. Now head west, towards the River Tas. Turn right by the bench, past fragments of old walls, then right again when you reach a longer section of wall, still following the trail markers. Go through a gate, then walk along the side of the bank with more wall to your right. Go up the steps, then descend again to the ditch on the eastern edge of the town. Go past St Edmund’s Church and when you reach the car park, go through it. Cross the road, then go through the gate opposite then turn right. You are now on Boudica’s Way. Just after the brick cottages take the tiny unmarked lane to your left, still following Boudica’s Way. Go up a hill, keep straight at the next junction and keep walking until you see Whiteford Hall. Turn left up Valley Farm Lane, following the yellow Boudica’s Way markers. After the farm, look for the footpath sign to your right. Take this and keep to your right, along the side of a hedge. Jig right, then immediately left and keep walking until you reach a paved lane. Turn left and then look for another footpath sign, which you’ll find to your right. Take the footpath, and follow the markers down a hill and up the other side. It’s important to keep to the footpaths here, because there are plenty of signs indicating private property. At the top of the field, take the left-hand path through the woods, continuing to follow the yellow markers for Boudica’s Way. At a four-way junction, go right across a field, still on Boudica’s Way. Continue around a chalk quarry until you see a gate to the right. Follow the path straight across the field. Turn left on to Arminghall Lane. At the T-junction, go left using the gravel path and the verges. Descend a hill into the village of Caistor St Edmund, and follow signs for the Roman town, passing 17th-century Caistor Hall to your left. Keep walking until you reach the signs for Venta Icenorum, then turn right into the car park.