From Brancaster to Branodunum

About trip

Some time around ad 240-250 the Romans came to Brancaster and built a fort. It was square with a tower at each corner. Between the towers was a curtain wall about 10ft (3m) thick, and there was a gate halfway along each of the four walls. In addition to this, they added a wide ditch, so that any attackers would have to climb down it and up the other side - all the while bombarded with arrows and stones from the defenders above. They reinforced the walls by adding a rampart inside. The Roman Fort of Branodunum. The fort was quite large - about 6.5 acres (2.6ha), and was probably built over a site that had been levelled by previous occupants. Although it lies in a field that is about a mile (1.6km) from the sea today, when the Romans built it, it was right on the estuary. It was a fabulous location, because not only did it provide good access to the sea, but it was near the Peddars Way, an important line of communication in Roman times. By the 4th century ad, the civilian population that relied on the fort’s protection had moved away from Branodunum. The military settlement survived for a while, as the most northerly of the Saxon Shore fort systems designed to protect the Dalmatian cavalry against Anglo-Saxon raids, but eventually it was abandoned. You will not see much of the fort, except for some earthworks covered in vegetation, but walking around the field will give you an idea of its size. The fort is now in the care of the National Trust, which owns around 2,000 acres (810ha) of the coast, of which Branodunum is a part, comprising 4 miles (6.4km) of tidal foreshore. The entire region, with its salt marshes, mudflats and sand dunes, is a haven for wildlife and you might expect to see redshank, greenshank, sharp-eyed gannets with their dazzling white plumage, and the delicate common and Sandwich terns. Watching and waiting patiently for a chance to grab a sick, weak or careless bird is the Arctic skua, a fierce scavenger-predator, which is a summer visitor. When you are out in the marshes take the opportunity to stop, close your eyes and listen - to the hiss of wind in long grass, the muted roar of distant waves and the piping whistles of birds. The countryside is never completely silent and it is always a restful experience to hear the many sounds of nature. While you're there: Norfolk Lavender in nearby Heacham is one of England’s finest lavender farms. It is open all year and there is a shop and a tea room. In the opposite direction is Holkham Hall and its Bygones Museum, while closer to Brancaster is Wells-next-the-Sea with its charming narrow streets and Georgian houses. Next to it is Warham St Mary, which has handsome Renaissance glass in its church. What to look out for: Scolt Head Island nature reserve and bird sanctuary lies about 1 mile (1.6km) north. Where to eat and drink: The Jolly Sailors in Brancaster Staithe serves bar meals and has a restaurant, a sea view, and is open daily. There is a mobile sandwich van in Harbour Way, near the car park, which sells baguettes filled with local seafood. At Brancaster, the Ship opposite the church has a pleasant beer garden. Families are welcome, and there are bar meals and a restaurant. The post office sells ice creams and cold drinks. Directions: Walk into the area owned by the Sailing Club and, just before the slipway, you will see the National Trail marker on your left. Go through the kissing gate and stroll along the boardwalk edging the marshes. Continue ahead until you pass a brick and flint house. Turn left and leave the coastal path, going through a kissing gate to enter a large field. This is Rack Hill, the area that houses the Roman fort. Follow the lefthand side of the field until you reach another kissing gate. Cross the lane through another kissing gate . Keep to the right side of the field, following around the top of the field until you reach another kissing gate in the corner of the field. Cross the A149 on to Green Common Lane. Walk past the felled tree stumps blocking vehicular access and start to go uphill. The track bends twice, but follow it until it comes to a gate and footpath junction to your left. Continue straight along the grassy track between the hedges. Here you enter Barrow Common nature reserve. At the seat you have the choice of three paths. Take the middle one. You will eventually exit on to a peaceful paved lane. Turn right, and follow the lane down a fairly steep hill. Turn left at the junction. Across from here, during the early summer, are fields of poppies. Continue until you reach a wood, where you may hear the lilting song of nightingales. The road bends sharply left, eventually ending at the A149. Cross the A149 with care and turn right. After a few paces take the first left down The Drove, opposite the garage and post office. At the end of the lane is a sign for the coast path. Follow it down a narrow, tree-lined track until it emerges on to marshes and the main Norfolk Coast Path. Turn left and walk along the path until you see the yacht masts of the Sailing Club. First you reach a small boatyard then follow the trail through wooden huts. The next buildings are home to the Sailing Club itself and the car park.