The Moorland Ramparts of Carl Wark

About trip

On the moors beyond Hathersage, history and geology combine to produce a fascinating panorama. The main stone bed from which this area is formed is Chatsworth grit, a coarse, gritty, sandstone, with scattered pebbles, that is extremely resistant to erosion. This was once much valued as a building material and many Peak District buildings, including Chatsworth House, are constructed from it. The other major use to which it was put was to fashion grinding stones for the emerging Sheffield tool and cutlery industry and to provide millstones for grinding corn. Millstone Edge was once a thriving quarrying area. However the introduction of carborundum (a synthetic abrasive) in the 20th century led to a fall in demand for millstone grit and the consequent demise of the quarrying industry. The quarrymen may have gone but they have left piles of half-fashioned millstones lying amidst the debris of quarried stone near the start of this walk. Burbage Edge: The escarpment that forms Burbage Edge is an impressive backdrop for a series of flat-topped hills rising from the moor. Over Owler Tor, Winyards Nick, Higger Tor and Carl Wark were once part of the same sandstone bed as Burbage Edge but were displaced by faulting. With their concave sides, bare gritstone edges and level surfaces these uplands were ideal sites for fortification. There are at least nine fine examples of hill-forts in the Peak District probably dating from the Iron Age, and Carl Wark is certainly one of the most spectacular. It is lower in height than its neighbour, Higger Tor, but it is defended naturally on all but one of its sides by very steep slopes. On the undefended side a stone rampart has been built, about 20ft (6m) wide at the base with boulders bonded to a wall of turf. In the south-west corner, where the defensive wall turns inwards, lies what would once have been the entrance to the fort. The age of the fort has never been satisfactorily settled. One school of thought would place it in the post-Roman period of the 5th and 6th centuries ad because of the technique used in building the stone and turf wall, and because of similarities with the construction of Dark Age (ad 500–1100) forts in Scotland. Others have argued that the ‘in-turned’ entrance suggests a much earlier Iron Age construction. Gardom’s Edge, near Baslow to the south, which is very similar to Carl Wark in that its interior is small and rocky with little space for buildings, is actually a neolithic enclosure, however nothing has yet been found at Carl Wark to date it from this time. The controversy will continue but probably Carl Wark was originally an Iron or Bronze Age construction, which was refortified at the end of the Roman occupation. While you're there: To find out more about Carl Wark and many other prehistoric sites around the Peak District, it’s worth making a trip into nearby Sheffield, where the City Museum in Weston Park has an extensive collection of finds from the area. There are also displays about the ecology and climate of the Peak District, alongside exhibitions reflecting Sheffield’s industrial past, particularly its role in the manufacture of cutlery. A highlight of the wildlife exhibits is a polar bear! Where to eat and drink: The Millstone Inn is on the A6187 between the car park and Hathersage. A former coaching inn, it has been serving the needs of travellers since the 19th century. The bar has open fires, friendly staff and a selection of traditional and modern dishes prepared using fresh local produce. Timothy Taylor and Black Sheep hand-pulled ales are always on tap along with up to four other guest ales What to look out for: Black Grouse can be spotted on the moors near Carl Wark, but tend to keep under cover and are most likely found near conifer woodland. Males are recognisable by their mostly black plumage and distinctive red wattle on the head. During mating displays their tail is spread to reveal white undertail feathers. The best chance of seeing one is in the early morning from late winter to early summer Directions: From the car park at Surprise View go through a kissing gate and uphill on a well-worn path. At a large group of stones the path veers left and continues uphill towards Over Owler Tor. Just before this go left on a smaller track, head downhill and towards a fence. Turn right at the fence. 2 Continue following this track until it meets with a dry-stone wall that has been running parallel with the track. Follow the path right from here past the end of a large sheepfold. Continue walking ahead on the moorland path. The rocky outcrop of Higger Tor is now on the left and Carl Wark is ahead to the right. 3 When the path forks, veer right. Continue past Carl Wark, keeping it to the right. Go downhill towards the far right corner of a wood. Cross over a stone bridge then a wooden bridge, head uphill on a well-worn path to join an old green road and then turn left. 4 Continue along this track with Burbage Rocks above you and to the right. At Upper Burbage Bridge cross two streams via large stones, head uphill and follow the upper of two paths to the left and uphill. Continue across open moorland then ascend Higger Tor on a stone stepped path. Cross the tor then descend the other side near the south-east corner. 5 Follow the track across the moor towards Carl Wark. Ascend this and turn left to reach the summit. After looking around at the views return to the top of the path and, keeping the stone ramparts on your left, descend via a path southwards. 6 From here the path heads across a boggy section of moor, curves round a small, rocky hill then heads downhill towards the A6187. Cross on to this road via a stile, cross the road and turn right on to a pavement. 7 Turn left through a gate and down to a footbridge. Turn right on to the Waterside path. 8 At the next footbridge, turn right for the wide, sunken path between the heather. At the top, cross the road for the car park.