The Spendour of Wimpole

About trip

Wimpole Hall is among the National Trust’s most impressive properties, an 18th-century mansion surrounded by 350 acres (142ha) of landscaped lakes, follies and woodland. Despite its original splendour, the house passed through several different owners and by the early 20th century was in a poor condition. In 1938 it was bought by Captain George Bambridge whose wife, Elsie, was the daughter of Rudyard Kipling. After her husband’s death she continued its gradual restoration, and when she died in 1976 the house and entire estate were left to the National Trust. What to look for: Wimpole Hall stands in a classically landscaped English park, with grand tree-lined avenues, serpentine lakes and bizarre follies, as well as a ha-ha (a trench that separates the garden from the parkland without impeding the view). Where to eat and drink: Visit The Old Rectory restaurant next to the hall, or the refreshment point in the old stable block. Alternatively, try The Red House or The Hardwicke Arms on the A1198. Directions: On the corner where the public driveway reaches the main car park, take the gate in the black railings for a path that runs diagonally across two open fields towards Home Farm. Aim just to the left of the red telephone box on the lane on the far side. Turn left into the lane and walk past the farm and on past Thornberry Hill Cottages at Brick End. About 350yds (320m) beyond a small humpback bridge, at the far side of Nursery Plantation, turn left through a double-gated track. Carry on through another gate and out into open fields, and follow the fence around the top of the slope. On your right, but out of bounds, is a curious hilltop folly resembling the ruins of a small castle. It was built in the late 1760s – deliberately as a ruin. Commissioned by the 1st Earl of Hardwicke, Lord Chancellor at the time, the sham castle was purely an aesthetic feature, designed to be viewed from the front and right (in other words from Wimpole Hall itself). It was designed by Sanderson Miller, who spent a lifetime designing Gothic castles, prospect towers and castellated ruins, and perhaps not surprisingly suffered from periodic bouts of madness. Its building was overseen by the ubiquitous Lancelot Brown, a leading exponent of what was referred to as the ‘Natural Landscape’, and who acquired his nickname ‘Capability’ because of his assertion that every park was ‘capable of improvement’. Just beyond the folly, turn left and, enjoying the fine views across to the hall, walk down across the open hillside to the lakes at the bottom of the slope. Go over the Chinese bridge, built in 1767 and restored in 1986, and on towards the back of the hall that is just visible above the brow of the hill. Cross the iron bridge and, approaching the gardens by the hall, swing right to reach the gate beyond the curving railings. Go through the gate and turn right to walk sharply uphill along the grassy, tree-lined avenue. It originally comprised elm, but following the ravages of Dutch elm disease it was replanted with lime. At the very top turn left and, with the hall away to your left, walk downhill on a clear path through the rough grassland alongside a fence (which is on your right). Ahead are expansive views over Hertfordshire towards the distant Chilterns. At the bottom of the slope turn left on to the surfaced drive and follow this back to the turning for the main approach to the hall. The former stable block, which now houses the information point, as well as refreshments and toilets, is a little further along the driveway. Wimpole Hall was designed by James Gibbs, Henry Flitcroft and Sir John Soane, and contains some notable features, not least the stunning Yellow Drawing Room and the Bath House with its 2,000- gallon (9,092-litre) plunge bath. The library was built in 1730 to hold part of the former owner’s, Lord Harley, massive collection of books, and such was his literary and artistic standing that visitors to Wimpole included Alexander Pope and Jonathan Swift. More recent rooms include Mrs Bambridge’s study, dressing room and bedroom, all on show with period items and original furnishings. Adjoining the hall is Wimpole Home Farm, open daily (except Thursday and Friday) from March to October, weekends at other times. Built in 1794 and carefully restored by the National Trust, it’s now home to a diverse range of rare breeds that were common in previous centuries, including Longhorn cattle, Soay sheep and Tamworth pigs. Not surprisingly, it’s immensely popular with children. The enormous Great Barn houses a fascinating display of farm machinery and implements dating back over 200 years. Wimpole Hall is usually open from the beginning of March until the end of October (closed Thursday and Friday, except Thursdays during school holidays), while the park is open daily from sunrise to sunset all year round.