Above Kielder's Dam

About trip

Distance: 4 miles, Minnimum Time: 2hrs, Difficulty: Easy, Description: The most westerly limits of Northumberland are defined by the tortuous meanderings of the Scottish border. Here, where the population, already thin, reaches its lowest density, is the largest non-natural forest in Britain. And within this forest is northern Europe’s largest non-natural lake. The Percy and Swinburne families owned much of the land around the valley of the River North Tyne and the Percys built Kielder Castle as a shooting lodge in 1775. During the 19th century, coal was mined on land now submerged by the reservoir. Some was used locally, while a good proportion was carried, by packhorse and later by railway, for sale across the border. By the mid-1930s, mining had come to an end, but was set to be replaced by a new industry. In 1919, the Forestry Commission was formed to cater for Britain’s timber needs. In 1924 it bought 2,000 acres (810ha) near Falstone and, in 1932, a further 47,000 acres (19,035ha). Following the Second World War, more land was acquired and planting extended. To house the workers needed for this rapidly expanding enterprise, forestry villages were built at Kielder, in the centre of the forest, and at Byrness and Stonehaugh near its eastern edges. The various plantations that are now linked together to make up Kielder Forest which covers a total area of 100,000 acres (40,500ha). The trees are made up almost entirely of five conifer species: Norway and sitka spruce, Scots and lodgepole pine and Japanese larch. Kielder Castle is now the administrative headquarters of the Forestry Commission and also houses a visitors’ information centre. In 1974 the order was made authorising the construction of Kielder Reservoir to provide water for the cities and industries of the north-east. Work began in 1975 and was completed five years later. In December 1980 Kielder Water began to fill up, and the scheme was officially opened in May 1982. The dam is 0.75 mile (1.2km) long and 170ft (52m) high. The shoreline encloses a lake 7 miles (11.3km) in length and has a capacity of 44 billion gallons (200 billion litres). Water is released through the valve tower, which rises from the lake 190yds (174m) from the dam. It flows into the North Tyne and from there to the Tyne. Some of the water is extracted at Riding Mill and pumped through a tunnel under the Durham moors into the Wear and the Tees. Controversy generated by the building of the reservoir has been silenced by the lake’s enormous recreational value and its undoubted enhancement of the scenery of the North Tyne Valley. While you're there: As well as the visitor centre at Tower Knowe, which explains much of the lake’s history, you may be drawn to Leaplish Waterside Park, where there is a splendid children’s play area, a mini-golf course, which isn’t nearly as Blackpool as it sounds and the Kielder Bird of Prey Centre, close to the Boat Inn. What to look out for: The best viewpoint on this walk is from the top of the Belling Crag, which juts out over the lake shore. The crag is made of fell sandstone and was once an important rock climbing venue, with about two dozen routes on its steep faces. However, because of the construction of the reservoir, climbing is no longer possible here. Where to eat and drink: A good selection of meals is available at the Café on the Water at Tower Knowe Visitors’ Centre (seasonal opening). You can dine while enjoying a mesmerising view of the lake and forest through picture windows. There are further dining options at the Boat Inn at Leapish. Directions: From the western end of Hawkhope car park, follow the wide multi-user path round the back of the boatyard. This track zig-zags, generally parallel to the shoreline, over a small bridge and past the remains of a bastle (fortified farm building). Follow the gently graded path round an inlet of the lake and over two more bridges to the furthest reach of the inlet. Turn left, to follow a smaller path that leads across a narrow isthmus on to the Belling peninsula. At a fork in the track, go right and continue around the shore of The Belling. There are excellent views across the lake from several points and at one viewpoint there is a peculiar corbelled beehive hut. This is the Wave Chamber, one of a number of sculptures in the landscape around the reservoir; it is supposed to work as a camera obscura. Continue on the path around the headland, returning to re-cross the isthmus. Back on the main path, turn left, following it as it gently curves around the next bay and rises across the wooded slopes. The path descends again to a bridge. Cross this and turn right, on a boggy path up the river bank to intercept a large forestry road. Turn right, over the bridge, re-crossing the burn and walk up to a junction. Turn right here, signposted ‘Dam’. Follow this prominent forest road all the way back to the car park, ignoring options to the left and right.