Burned Hamlets of the Breamish

About trip

Distance: 7.5 miles, Minnimum Time: 4hrs (5hrs if following detours), Difficulty: Hard, Description: It is a river with two names. As the Breamish, it trickles from the peat of the Cheviots. After flowing through narrow V-shaped gorges, past the hamlets of Linhope, Hartside and Ingram, it swings north, changing its name to the Till somewhere near Wooler. A few miles further, it joins the Tweed and finally meets the sea at Berwick. Both of the river’s names are Celtic in origin, while those of the hamlets and the surrounding hills bear the more staccato syllables of an Anglo- Saxon overlay, reflecting the history of the valley itself. Names like Cushat Law (Woodpigeon Hill) and Bloodybush Edge, and the growth of wood sorrel on springtime slopes, tell of the forests and birch scrub that covered the now grassy hilltops a thousand years ago. It was the coming of agriculture, and in particular the grazing of sheep, that cleared the hills of their trees. The farms of the now sparsely populated Breamish Valley once supported large, thriving communities. First the Celts, who built settlements on the summits with commanding views over the valley. Ewe Hill, Brough Law and Hartside Hill, to the west of Ingram village, all held extensive constructions, the ruins of which can easily be seen, while to the south of Linhope are the remains of several smaller dwellings on Meggrim’s Knowe. On the hill that overlooks Linhope from the north, are the remains of the hut circles and fortifications of Grieve’s Ash. Covering an area of 20 acres (8.1ha), this was the largest Romano-British settlement in Northumbria. A translation of its name appears to refer to a burned hamlet whose Celtic inhabitants were subject to the Saxon Greve, or District Governor. Perhaps this governor burned the village as a reprisal for some misdemeanour. Ingram’s name is derived from the Anglo-Saxon ‘angr’, which refers to the grasslands that provided excellent grazing for sheep. As the population grew, and land on the valley floor became scarce, cultivation terraces, or lynchets were constructed on the hillsides. Surface boulders were used to build low retaining walls and the land behind these was levelled and ploughed. While you're there: About a mile (1.6km) to the north-west of Linhope, a tributary of the Breamish tumbles over a 50ft (15m) crag of volcanic rock into a deep pool, to form Linhope Spout, possibly the most picturesque waterfall in Northumberland. Where to eat and drink: Very light refreshments only can be bought at the Ingram National Park Centre. More substantial meals can be eaten at the Poacher’s Rest Coffee House and Restaurant at the Hedgeley Service Station on the A697 just north of Powburn. In Powburn village itself, the Plough serves bar meals. Directions: From Hartside, take the metalled road signposted to Alnhammoor, over a cattle grid, then turn sharp right and downhill. At the bottom of the hill, the road turns left and leads you to a wooden bridge. Cross the bridge and continue steadily uphill, past the farm and across three more cattle grids. The impressive river valley is to your left. Near the top of the first rise, another track joins the main roadway from the left. You are now on the side of Meggrim’s Knowe. (A trackless detour over the hill to your right and down to a shoulder on the other side will bring you, in 0.25 mile (400m) to the remains of the Celtic settlement.) Continue on the metalled road, which follows the contour and gives spectacular views into Breamish valley. The road swings left, descends gently to join the river, then turns left again through a narrow gorge to Low Bleakhope farm. Beyond, the valley opens out to High Bleakhope. Continue past this and the two small woods beyond, to a gate. Follow the signposted public bridleway to the right, steeply uphill to a gate and stile. Go through the gate and continue less steeply, following the guide posts for 550 yards (500m) to the next gate, through this and across to a third gate 220 yards (200m) farther on. Beyond this, three tracks diverge. Take the middle track, which leads across open moorland, with views to the left toward Cheviot and Hedgehope Hill, Northumberland’s highest peaks. Continue past the walk’s highest point, Rig Cairn, then downhill to a fence that runs across the saddle. Go through the gate and down to the side of the forest, passing through another gate on the way. Linhope Spout can be reached by following the lower track left along the forest edge, through a kissing gate and downhill for 0.25 mile (400m). This is a short but very rewarding detour. Back on the main route, follow the rubble track to the right to reach Linhope hamlet after 0.25 mile (400m). The metalled road leads across a bridge and uphill for 220yds (201m), to where a broad track on the left leads into a field at the side of the forest. To visit Grieve’s Ash, go on to this track, then follow the edge of the forest steeply uphill for 110yds (100m). The extensive remains of the settlement occupy the whole area behind the forest. The main road leads you back to your car in Hartside in about 0.5 mile (800m).