Hepburn Crags and Ros Castle

About trip

Distance: 7.5 miles, Minnimum Time: 4hrs, Difficulty: Hard, Description: The origins of the Chillingham wild cattle are not known. Their skull structure suggests similarities with the aurochs, so they may be descended from those ancient wild oxen that once roamed Britain. Recent DNA tests performed on dead animals show that they are unrelated to any other European cattle. Having remained uncontaminated by outside stock, they are probably the only genetically pure cattle in the world. They are always white, no coloured animals have ever been born, and they are definitely wild. Captured Cattle. The Chillingham herd has roamed its 365- acre (148ha) park for almost 700 years, since Sir Thomas Percy was granted a royal licence to fortify Chillingham Castle and enclose the grounds. The captured cattle may have provided a food supply. Over the years they have never been domesticated. The strongest bull leads the herd, he remains ‘King’, and sires all the calves born during his ‘rule’ until such time as another bull successfully challenges him. Even a birth is accompanied by a ritual, which must be observed before the new calf is accepted into the herd. Care of the Herd. The number of cattle in the herd normally varies from 40 to 60, but during the severe winter of 1947, their numbers fell to 13. Their wild nature meant that normal agricultural methods could not be employed to help them. The Chillingham cattle never seek shelter other than in the surrounding trees and will eat only grass and hay and, even when starving, will not accept oats or prepared cattle food. Fortunately the cattle are rarely ill, but when disease does strike, they cannot be approached by a vet. The tragic outbreak of foot and mouth disease in 1967 and again in 2001 threatened the survival of the herd, on the earlier occasion encroaching within 2 miles (3.2km) of Chillingham. The Chillingham Wild Cattle Association was formed in 1939 to look after the welfare of the herd. The 8th Earl of Tankerville bequeathed ownership of the herd to the association on his death in 1971. When the 9th earl died in 1980, the Chillingham Estate was put up for sale. As a result of the intervention of the Duke of Northumberland, Chillingham Park was sold separately from the castle to the Sir James Knott Charitable Trust, which granted the association grazing rights for 999 years. Visitors can see the cattle in their natural surroundings, which look much as they did in medieval times. The cattle’s behaviour, however, is unpredictable, so for safety reasons, you can only enter the park when accompanied by the warden. Binoculars are recommended for a close view. The park is open daily except Tuesday and the entrance fee is relatively modest. While you're there: Chillingham Castle, now owned by Sir Humphrey Wakefield, dates back to the 13th century, and played a part in the Border wars of the times. It has been called England’s most haunted castle and its resident ghost has been seen emerging from a wall in the north-west tower. The castle is open afternoons, except Saturdays, from May to September, and has a reasonable admission fee. What to look out for: The main doorway and chancel of the Church of St Peter were built in Norman times. The 13th-century Lady Chapel on the south side of the church contains the tomb of Sir Ralph Grey (died 1443) and Lady Elizabeth Grey. The sandstone tomb is very ornately carved and the effigies are made of alabaster. Where to eat and drink: If you visit the castle, there is a tea room inside. Otherwise, the only hostelry in the vicinity is the restaurant in the Percy Arms, in Chatton, 1.5 miles (2.4km) north of Chillingham village. Directions: Take the path from the rear of the car park, passing a Forestry Commission barrier. Shortly turn steeply left with a yellow arrow, zig-zagging up the slope to reach a ladder stile. Over this, continue to head steeply up, now half right, choosing your line carefully through the jumble of massive boulders. As you approach the horizon, you breach the enclosing wall of Hepburn Crag fort. Finds here include burial cists and you may be able to identify ‘cup marks’ on some of the rocks. Once inside, pick out the exit opposite, across the bracken, heather and bilberry. From this far side of the fort, follow the green arrow, picking out a heathery track towards the cone of Ros Castle. The track is narrow and damp to begin with, but broadens out as you reach the road. Cross over and take the obvious track, winding its way up to the summit of the hill fort. Where the track forks, take the left option and go up to the trig point. The remains of Ros Castle lie around the summit. The site may be able to trace its origins as far back as 3,000 years ago, though the rock carvings may be a lot older, perhaps dating from the early Neolithic period. From the viewing platform you can see seven historic castles: Lindisfarne, Bamburgh, Dunstanburgh, Warkworth, Alnwick, Ford and Chillingham. A topograph helps you identify the distant features, and a plaque explains how the site came into the hands of the National Trust. From the summit of Ros Castle, return to the road and turn right, downhill for 100yds (91m). Follow the track to a gate in the wall to your left and go through the gate into Chillingham Wood. Turn right, then left and follow marker posts on to a broader track after 100yds (91m). This leads you uphill, then across a level stretch to a fence. On your left is a view over Chillingham Park, where you might, on occasion, be able to see the wild cattle. Turn right at the fence and go uphill as indicated by the signpost to Chillingham. When you reach the wall, turn left and follow the track between the wall and the fence to a picnic table. Continue to the next forest, and walk between the wall and the forest for about 250yds (229m) to the next signpost to Chillingham. Turn left and descend through the forest, following the marker posts about 50yds (46m) apart. When this small track reaches a junction with a track signed ‘Forest Walk’, turn right and continue to a signpost. Take the Chillingham direction, through two tall kissing gates to a picnic area with two tables. Continue along the track to a forest road and turn right on to this, which becomes metalled lower down. A sign points you left over a small bridge, back into the woods, following the red markers. The track rises to a gate in the deer fence, then levels off to run parallel with a wall. Continue beyond picnic tables to a gate and turn right. Keep right at the next junction, down the hill. Keep right again to descend to the road in front of Garden Cottage. Turn left and follow the road past the Church of St Peter, on your left, then past a gate leading to Chillingham Castle. Cross the Hollow Burn either by ford or footbridge and continue to a T-junction with the main road. Turn left and follow the road, passing the main castle gate after 550yds (500m).